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Field Guide · Entry № 263

The Furka Pass

The Furka road zigzagging up a green mountainside beside the Rhone Glacier’s grey tongue, below the snowy Galenstock, seen across from the Grimsel side with alpine turf in the foreground

Photograph: Joris Egger · Furkapass-Strasse und Rhonegletscher · CC BY-SA 3.0 · cropped

The Furka Pass road climbs east to west from Realp in the canton of Uri to its summit at 2,429 metres, then drops in hairpins past the Rhone Glacier to Gletsch in Valais, where the road over the Grimsel Pass branches off. The summit is on the European watershed: water on one side runs to the North Sea by the Reuss and the Rhine, on the other to the Mediterranean by the Rhone. On the western side stands the Hotel Belvédère, built around 1882 beside the glacier and closed since 2015, and the glacier itself, which has retreated about 1,300 metres in 120 years and is partly wrapped in white fleece each summer to slow its melting. The road closes for the winter; a car train runs through a tunnel underneath it all year.

Where
Uri and Valais
Switzerland
Start / end
Realp (Uri) to Gletsch and Oberwald (Valais), Main Road 19
Length
29 km Realp–Oberwald (alpen-paesse.ch, a pass database)
Highest point
2,429 m (Swiss national map); 2,436 m on the sign at the top
Season
Closed in winter; reopened 29 May 2026; closed 27 Oct in 2025 (Canton Uri)
All year
Car train through the Furka Base Tunnel, Realp–Oberwald, about 20 minutes (Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn)
Status
Open (alpen-paesse.ch, 13 Oct 2026); winter closure due
Advisory
Switzerland Level 1
From Tally’s diary

Hairpins hung off a bare grey mountainside, the clouds coming up the valley faster than the car. Halfway up stood a tall shuttered hotel with its windows boarded, and beside it a glacier that somebody had covered in white sheets, like the furniture in a closed house. A steam train whistled somewhere below. At the top the wind was coming from both sides at once.

Route facts

Route
Realp (Uri) to Oberwald (Valais), by way of Gletsch
Length
29 km: 12 km up from Realp, 17 km down to Oberwald (alpen-paesse.ch, a pass database)Checked · alpen-paesse.ch: Furkapass
Season window
Closed in winter; reopened 29 May 2026; closed 27 October in 2025 and 11 November in 2024; closings since 2000 between 21 October and 2 DecemberChecked · Canton of Uri, Baudirektion: pass openings and closings since 2000
Closures
Open as read Listed as open, unchanged since 9 October 2026, on 13 October 2026; no closing date had been announced. The winter closure is due.Live alert: alpen-paesse.ch: Furkapass (pass database); Canton of Uri road information
Fees
Nothing to book for the pass road; the car train through the base tunnel is ticketedChecked · Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn: Furka car transport
Cost to enter
Free
Anchor point
Furka Pass summit
46.57° N, 8.41° E

The short answer

The Furka Pass (Furkapass) is a road pass in the Swiss Alps at 2,429 metres, on Main Road 19, linking Realp in the canton of Uri with Gletsch and Oberwald in Valais, German Wikipedia records. The pass database alpen-paesse.ch gives the drive from Realp to Oberwald as 29 kilometres: 12 kilometres up from Realp at 1,538 metres, 17 down to Oberwald at 1,369. The road closes in winter. In 2026 it reopened on 29 May at 9:00, the canton of Uri announced; the canton’s own record gives its last five closings as 27 October 2025, 11 November 2024, 30 October 2023, 9 November 2022 and 3 November 2021. On 13 October 2026 alpen-paesse.ch listed the pass as open, unchanged since 9 October, and no closing date had been announced. When the pass is closed, cars cross on the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn’s car train through the Furka Base Tunnel between Realp and Oberwald, which runs all year and takes about 20 minutes.

Why it's worth knowing

A glacier in blankets. The Rhone Glacier, beside the pass road on its western side, is the source of the Rhône. Wikipedia records that it has retreated about 1,300 metres in the last 120 years, and that Swissinfo reported in 2025 it had lost about 60 percent of its volume since 1850. For several years UV-resistant white fleece blankets have been laid over about 2 hectares of it in the warm months, which is estimated to reduce melting there by up to 70 percent. An ice grotto is cut into the glacier each year near the Hotel Belvédère; English Wikipedia says the glacier moves 30 to 40 metres a year, so the 100-metre tunnel and chamber have to be recarved every season.

A hotel beside a glacier that moved. The Hotel Belvédère stands at 2,272 metres on a hairpin of the western ramp. German Wikipedia says it was built around 1882 and has been closed since 2015, and that in the early 19th century the Rhone Glacier still reached down to Gletsch. Tourists have come to see the glacier since about 1870, English Wikipedia records.

Roads, rails and a film. The pass road was built between 1864 and 1866, nearly 40 kilometres from Hospental to Oberwald and at least 4.2 metres wide, with the federal government paying two-thirds of the cost for military reasons, German Wikipedia says; horse-drawn post coaches used it until the first postbus crossed in 1921. A railway followed, through a summit tunnel at 2,160 metres opened in 1925, until the Furka Base Tunnel replaced it in 1982; enthusiasts saved the old mountain line, and a steam railway has run its full length again since 12 August 2010. In 1964 scenes of the James Bond film Goldfinger were shot on the pass, and a curve on it is now signed “James Bond Strasse”, with a lookout and a small car park.

The field notes

2,429 or 2,436

The Swiss national map gives the pass as 2,429 metres; the sign at the top, German Wikipedia notes, still says 2,436, the figure on the old Siegfried map.

Where the water parts

German Wikipedia places the European watershed between the Mediterranean and the North Sea on the pass: the Furkareuss on the Uri side flows to the Reuss and the Rhine, and the Muttbach on the Valais side to the Rhône.

Tally’s list
  1. Stand at the very top for a minute facing one way, then the other.
  2. Leave the car by the shuttered hotel and walk down to the ice. Give it an hour, not ten minutes.
  3. Keep to the path near the glacier, however tempting the short cut across the stones.
  4. Leave the stones by the ice where they are. The glacier has given up enough already.
  5. Put the flask in the bag, not the boot. I have written this on every list since, and I still forget.
The Relic

The blankets on the Rhone Glacier. White, UV-resistant fleece sheets laid over about 2 hectares of the Rhone Glacier each warm season, a short walk from the Hotel Belvédère on the Furka Pass road, to slow the melting of the ice. Wikipedia records that they have been used for several years and are estimated to reduce melting there by up to 70 percent, while the glacier as a whole has retreated about 1,300 metres in 120 years. In 2018 the photographers Simon Norfolk and Klaus Thymann photographed the wrapped glacier for the charity Project Pressure, in a series called “Shroud”.

Tally, in the marginFrom the road I took the white patches for old snow. It was only up close, at the edge, that I saw the seams.

Getting there

How to drive it. From the east, the pass road leaves Realp in the Urseren valley, below Andermatt, and climbs 12 kilometres to the summit; from the west it climbs from Oberwald in the Goms valley through Gletsch, where the Grimsel Pass road branches north. alpen-paesse.ch gives average gradients of 7.4 percent on the east side and 6.6 on the west. The Hotel Belvédère and the path to the Rhone Glacier are on the western ramp below the summit.

When to go. In summer only. The pass reopened on 29 May in 2026 and closes for the winter when snow arrives, on a date that changes from year to year: the canton of Uri’s record since 2000 gives closings from 21 October (2009) to 2 December (2011), and openings from early May to late June. English Wikipedia says the Rhone Glacier can be visited only between the summer solstice and the autumn equinox, roughly 120 days a year. Outside the pass season, the car train through the Furka Base Tunnel between Realp and Oberwald runs all year.

What to arrange ahead. Nothing to book for the pass road; the car train is ticketed, by the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn. alpen-paesse.ch lists a ban on trailers, caravans included, and an 18-tonne weight limit between Realp and the summit. Check the pass’s status before setting out, especially in May, June, October and November.

Safety. The State Department has Switzerland at Level 1, exercise normal precautions, its lowest level; it says “Switzerland’s mountains can be dangerous because of avalanches, landslides, and sudden weather changes” (advisory dated 14 August 2026 in its feed, read 13 October 2026). The hazards here are exactly those, plus steep hairpins, cyclists and the unstable ground left by the retreating glacier.

Mark this place

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Common questions

When is the Furka Pass open?

The Furka Pass road between Realp and Gletsch in Switzerland is closed in winter. In 2026 it reopened on 29 May at 9:00, the canton of Uri said; the canton’s record gives the 2025 season as 28 May to 27 October, and closings since 2000 between 21 October and 2 December.

How high is the Furka Pass?

The Furka Pass is 2,429 metres high on the Swiss national map, German Wikipedia records, though the sign at the top still gives 2,436 metres, the height on the old Siegfried map. It links Realp in Uri with Gletsch and Oberwald in Valais.

Can you cross the Furka in winter?

Not by road. When the Furka Pass is closed, cars cross between Realp in Uri and Oberwald in Valais on the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn’s car train through the Furka Base Tunnel, which the railway says runs all year and takes about 20 minutes; the tunnel opened in 1982.

Can you see the Rhone Glacier from the Furka Pass road?

Yes. The Rhone Glacier lies beside the Furka Pass road on its western, Valais side, next to the closed Hotel Belvédère, and English Wikipedia says it can be visited between the summer solstice and the autumn equinox, roughly 120 days a year.

Why is the Rhone Glacier covered in blankets?

To slow its melting. For several years, Wikipedia records, UV-resistant white fleece blankets have covered about 2 hectares of the Rhone Glacier near the Furka Pass in the warm months, an effort estimated to reduce melting there by up to 70 percent.

Was Goldfinger filmed on the Furka Pass?

Yes. Scenes of the 1964 James Bond film Goldfinger, with Sean Connery and Gert Fröbe, were shot on the Furka Pass in Switzerland, German Wikipedia records, and English Wikipedia says a curve on the road is now signed “James Bond Strasse”, with a lookout and a small car park.

Is the Hotel Belvédère on the Furka Pass open?

No. The Hotel Belvédère, at 2,272 metres on the western ramp of the Furka Pass beside the Rhone Glacier, was built around 1882 and has been closed since 2015, German Wikipedia records.

How long is the Furka Pass road?

The pass database alpen-paesse.ch gives the Furka Pass road as 29 kilometres from Realp in Uri to Oberwald in Valais: 12 kilometres up the eastern side and 17 down the western. The original road of 1864 to 1866 ran nearly 40 kilometres from Hospental.

Notes on sources. This entry draws on German Wikipedia’s article on the Furkapass, read directly on 13 October 2026 (2,429 metres on the national map and 2,436 on the sign, the Siegfried map, Uri and Valais, Main Road 19, the European watershed and the Furkareuss and Muttbach, Gletsch and the Grimsel, the Hotel Belvédère at 2,272 metres, built around 1882 and closed since 2015, the glacier at Gletsch in the early 19th century, the summit tunnel at 2,160 metres opened in 1925, the base tunnel and its year-round car train, the steam railway reopened on 12 August 2010, the road of 1864–1866, nearly 40 kilometres and 4.2 metres, the federal two-thirds, the post coaches and the first postbus in 1921, and Goldfinger in 1964). English Wikipedia’s articles on the Furka Pass (2,429 metres, Gletsch and Realp, the base tunnel in 1982, “James Bond Strasse”, the ice grotto, 30–40 metres a year and the 100-metre tunnel) and on the Rhone Glacier (the source of the Rhône, the solstice-to-equinox visiting season, 1,300 metres in 120 years, Swissinfo’s 60 percent since 1850, the blankets on about 2 hectares and up to 70 percent, tourists since 1870, Norfolk and Thymann’s “Shroud” of 2018) were read directly. alpen-paesse.ch, a private pass database, read directly, supplied 29 kilometres, the two ramps and their gradients, the trailer ban and the 18-tonne limit, and the status “open, normal” unchanged since 9 October 2026. Plattform J’s report of 29 May 2026, read directly, supplied the reopening at 9:00 that day, as announced by the canton of Uri. The canton of Uri’s Baudirektion record “Passöffnungen und Passschliessungen seit 2000” (PDF, read directly on 13 October 2026) supplied the openings and closings from 2000 to 2025. The Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn’s page “Furka car transport”, read directly, supplied the year-round car trains and the 20-minute trip. The State Department’s feed, read directly, supplied Switzerland’s Level 1, dated 14 August 2026, and its sentence on the mountains. Coordinates are Wikipedia’s. Checked 13 October 2026. Written and fact-checked by SockMonkey.com. Last reviewed 13 October 2026.