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Field Guide · Entry № 288

Cinque Terre

Colourful houses stacked on a rock above a small harbour in soft pink light, a terraced hill behind

Photograph: Rafael Peier via Unsplash · Unsplash licence

On a short stretch of cliff coast in Liguria, west of La Spezia, five villages stand one after another between the headlands: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore. Over centuries people built terraces up the steep slopes to the cliff edge and planted them with vines, and the villages are joined by a footpath, the Sentiero Azzurro, and by the railway between Genoa and Pisa, which comes out of the rock at each. Together with Porto Venere and its islands they were inscribed as a World Heritage Site in 1997, and they became a national park in 1999. In October 2011 floods and mudslides killed nine people and buried streets in Vernazza and Monterosso; the short path between Riomaggiore and Manarola, the Via dell’Amore, closed after a rockslide in 2012 and was not fully open again for more than a decade.

Where
Province of La Spezia,
Liguria, Italy
Coordinates
44.11° N
9.73° E (Manarola)
The villages
Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia,
Manarola, Riomaggiore
World Heritage
1997 (with Porto Venere
and the islands)
National park
1999
Getting there
By train from La Spezia or Genoa
(the Genoa–Pisa line)
Advisory
Italy Level 2
exercise increased caution (terrorism)
From Tally’s diary

Small towns poured down into the sea between the cliffs, one after another, each house painted a different ice-cream colour, and narrow stone walls of vines stacked up the slopes above them. The path between them went uphill twice for every time it came down. A train shot out of the rock, dropped me in a village and vanished into the next tunnel, quite unbothered.

The short answer

The Cinque Terre, the Five Lands, is a coastal area within Liguria, in north-west Italy, in the west of the province of La Spezia, Wikipedia records. Its five villages are Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore. Over the centuries people built terraces on the steep slopes down to the cliffs; the Sentiero Azzurro footpath connects the villages, and landslides often close parts of it. In 1997 the area was added to the World Heritage List as “Portovenere, Cinque Terre, and the Islands” (Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto), over 4,511.54 hectares; a marine protected area was set up in 1998 and the Cinque Terre National Park in 1999. The article says millions of people visit every year.

Why it's worth knowing

A coast farmed in steps. The terraces carry the vines for the area’s wines: the Cinque Terre DOC and Sciacchetrà are both made from Bosco, Albarola and Vermentino grapes, Wikipedia records. In Manarola, a village of 353 people, the wine is especially renowned, and the article on the village says Roman writings mention the quality of wine from the region; it gives 1338 as the date of the cornerstone of the church of San Lorenzo, a date the article marks as needing a source. On the hillside above Manarola a retired railwayman, Mario Andreoli, made a nativity scene of handcrafted figures lit with “thousands and thousands of lights”.

A railway for a street. Trains from La Spezia and Genoa, on the line between Genoa and Pisa, stop at all five villages, and Wikipedia calls the train the best way to travel between them; most long-distance trains skip some of the villages, so travellers change to regional trains. Cars can reach the area, but parking, the article says, is a major issue.

The field notes

The flood of 2011

On 25 October 2011 torrential rain brought floods and mudslides down on the coast; nine people were killed, and the villages, Vernazza and Monterosso al Mare in particular, were severely damaged, Wikipedia records.

The lovers’ path

The Via dell’Amore runs for just over a kilometre between Riomaggiore and Manarola, Wikipedia records, and is said to take its name from the private, easy meeting place it gave young couples from the two villages in hilly country. On 24 September 2012 a rockslide injured four tourists and the path was closed; by April 2015 only 200 metres had reopened, and press reports in late 2019 put the cost of the major works at more than €12 million. Wikipedia’s two articles date the end of the work differently: the path’s own says it reopened in full in July 2024, and the Cinque Terre article says it was closed from late 2019 to February 2025.

Tally’s list
  1. Walk the path between two of the villages early, before the day catches up with you.
  2. Ride the little train from village to village, and get off wherever the colours look best.
  3. Write down the colour of every house. (The names gave out halfway through the second village. The back of the list has turned into a chart of shades I invented, and several of them are excellent.)
  4. These are villages where people hang out their washing and go home for lunch. Talk quietly on the stepped lanes at night, and stay out of doorways.
  5. Find a bench above the vines with the sea below it, and let the trains come and go without you.
The Relic

A stone terrace wall above Manarola. Over the centuries the people of the Cinque Terre built terraces on the steep slopes running down to the cliffs, Wikipedia records, and on them grew the Bosco, Albarola and Vermentino grapes for the coast’s wines. Each wall holds up a strip of earth and a row of vines, and stays on the hillside where it was built.

Tally, in the marginFrom the boat I took the hillsides for green stripes. Close to, every stripe was a wall of fitted stones holding up one row of vines, and I spent the rest of the afternoon trying to imagine the patience of it, and could not manage even a little of it.

Getting there

How to get there. By train: from La Spezia or Genoa, on the line between Genoa and Pisa, regional trains stop at all five villages, Wikipedia records; long-distance trains skip some, so a change at La Spezia or Genoa to a regional train or the Cinque Terre Express may be needed. Cars can reach the villages, but parking is scarce.

When to go. Canada’s travel advice for Italy (updated 29 September 2026) warns that heavy rains, particularly in autumn and winter, can cause severe flooding and landslides; travel guides say the park closes its paths under orange or red weather alerts (indexed).

What to arrange ahead. The Via dell’Amore is booked ahead: as of 20 October 2026, travel guides’ reports for 2026 (indexed; the park’s own site could not be opened) say entry is by timed ticket booked online through the national park, at €10 a person, with no walk-in places, and that the park’s Cinque Terre Card covers the other paths for the 2026 season, from 14 March to 2 November; the reports disagree on whether the €10 is part of the card, and no official 2026 card price could be read.

Safety. The State Department’s advisory for Italy is Level 2, “Exercise Increased Caution”, dated 10 September 2026, because of terrorism; it names no region, and warns that petty crime is common in tourist places and on public transport, including trains. Canada says to exercise a high degree of caution, for the same reason, and that theft is common on trains and in stations.

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Common questions

Where is Cinque Terre?

The Cinque Terre is a coastal area of Liguria, in north-west Italy, in the west of the province of La Spezia, Wikipedia records; its five villages stand on a cliff coast between La Spezia and Genoa.

What are the five villages of Cinque Terre?

The five villages of the Cinque Terre, in Liguria, Italy, are Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore, Wikipedia records.

When did Cinque Terre become a World Heritage Site?

The Cinque Terre, in Liguria, Italy, was added to the World Heritage List in 1997 together with Porto Venere and the islands of Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto; the Cinque Terre National Park followed in 1999, Wikipedia records.

How do you get to Cinque Terre?

By train: regional trains on the line between Genoa and Pisa stop at all five villages of the Cinque Terre, in Liguria, Italy, from La Spezia or Genoa, Wikipedia records; long-distance trains skip some of them, and parking for cars is scarce.

Is the Via dell’Amore open?

The Via dell’Amore, between Riomaggiore and Manarola in the Cinque Terre, closed after a rockslide on 24 September 2012; Wikipedia’s article on the path says it reopened in full in July 2024, and its Cinque Terre article gives February 2025. Travel guides for 2026 say entry is by timed ticket booked online.

What happened in Cinque Terre in 2011?

On 25 October 2011 torrential rain brought floods and mudslides to the Cinque Terre, in Liguria, Italy; nine people were killed, and Vernazza and Monterosso al Mare were severely damaged, Wikipedia records.

What wine is made in Cinque Terre?

The Cinque Terre, in Liguria, Italy, makes the Cinque Terre DOC wine and Sciacchetrà, both from Bosco, Albarola and Vermentino grapes grown on the terraced slopes, Wikipedia records.

Do you need a ticket to walk in Cinque Terre?

For some paths, yes: travel guides for 2026 say the Cinque Terre National Park, in Liguria, Italy, sells the Cinque Terre Card for its paths, for a season from 14 March to 2 November 2026, and that the Via dell’Amore needs a timed ticket at €10.

Notes on sources. The State Department’s travel advisory feed, read live on 20 October 2026, gave Italy’s Level 2 (10 September 2026), its reason and its petty-crime warning. Canada’s travel advice for Italy (updated 29 September 2026), read directly, supplied its risk level, the flood and landslide warning and the thefts on trains. Wikipedia’s articles on the Cinque Terre, Manarola and the Via dell’Amore, read directly on 20 October 2026, supplied the area’s place in Liguria and the province, the five villages, the terraces, the Sentiero Azzurro and its landslides, the World Heritage listing, area and islands, the marine protected area and the national park, the visitor figure, the trains, the parking and the wines and grapes; Manarola’s population, its wine, the Roman writings, the church date and its flag, and the nativity scene; the flood of 2011; and the path’s length, name, rockslide, partial reopening, cost and reopening dates (the two articles disagree, and both are given). These were reached only through their indexed text: travel guides on the closure of the paths under weather alerts, the 2026 booking and €10 ticket for the Via dell’Amore and the 2026 season of the Cinque Terre Card (the national park’s own site is not reachable under the network in use; the guides’ card prices disagree and are not used). Checked 20 October 2026. Written and fact-checked by SockMonkey.com. Last reviewed 20 October 2026.