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Field Guide · Entry № 006

The Drake Passage

Two days of open water between the last of South America and the first of Antarctica, where the largest current on Earth runs a full circle around the planet and meets no land at all.

A wave breaking against the side of a ship, spray thrown above the rail, grey open sea and low cloud beyond, orange lifeboat on the deck

Photograph: W. Bulach · CC BY-SA 4.0

Where
Cape Horn to the
South Shetland Islands
Coordinates
58.0000° S
65.0000° W
Biome
Open Southern Ocean
Width
c. 800 km, up to 4,500 m deep
Crossing
36–48 hours each way
Best crossed
November–March
From Tally’s diary

Two days where the list has exactly one item on it and the item is: cross. Nothing to visit, nowhere to stand, no corners to look around — just the biggest water there is, going about its enormous business, with one small traveller aboard doing his. I have never had so little to do and so much to watch.

The short answer

The Drake Passage is the stretch of open water between Cape Horn at the southern tip of South America and the South Shetland Islands off the Antarctic Peninsula — roughly 800 kilometres wide and up to 4,500 metres deep. It is the shortest crossing between any continent and Antarctica, and by wide agreement the roughest body of water on the planet. Well over 100,000 travellers cross it each season — IAATO reported roughly 105,000 for 2022–23 and about 125,000 for 2023–24 — almost all departing from Ushuaia, Argentina, on a passage taking 36 to 48 hours.

Why it's worth knowing

Every person who reaches the Antarctic Peninsula by ship crosses the Drake, and almost nobody writes about it as a destination. It is treated as the toll — two days to be endured before Antarctica begins.

That is a mistake, because the Drake is the reason Antarctica is Antarctica. The passage opened as South America and Antarctica separated, though when is unsettled: Scher and Martin's 2006 paper in Science put the published estimates between 49 and 17 million years ago, a 2024 review in Nature Geoscience still gives roughly 34 to 12 million years for the deep opening, and research published in 2025 argues for an initial opening far earlier, around 62 to 59 million years ago. Water could suddenly circulate all the way around the southern continent for the first time, and the Antarctic Circumpolar Current was born — a moat of moving water that cut Antarctica off from the warmth of the north and let it freeze. The continent's ice sheet exists in significant part because this gap opened.

Crossing the Drake is not the journey to Antarctica. It is the thing that made Antarctica.

The field notes

Why it is so rough

Three things compound. The Antarctic Circumpolar Current is the largest ocean current on Earth, moving on the order of 100 to 150 million cubic metres of water per second — and here it squeezes through its narrowest gap.

Second, there is no land. At these latitudes the wind can travel the entire circumference of the planet without meeting a continent, which gives it unlimited fetch to build waves. The old sailing names for these latitude bands say it plainly: the roaring forties, the furious fifties, the screaming sixties.

Third, this is where the Atlantic, Pacific and Southern Oceans meet, and Pacific cyclones sweep east across the passage. Swells of 10 metres are documented and considerably larger has been recorded. Modern expedition ships are ice-strengthened and stabilised, and captains still wait in the Beagle Channel for a forecast they like.

Drake Lake, Drake Shake

The passage has two moods and the crew will name them for you within an hour of leaving. The Drake Shake is the one in the reputation: portholes sealed on the lower decks, sick bags tucked behind every handrail, a ship moving in three axes at once. The Drake Lake is glassy water, albatrosses on the wind, and a queue at breakfast.

Which one you get is weather, not season, and there is no reliable way to buy your way out of it. It is the last unmanaged experience in a heavily managed itinerary.

The man who did not sail through it

The passage is named for Sir Francis Drake, who did not cross it. In 1578 Drake took the Strait of Magellan and was then blown south into open water, which established that a sea route existed south of the continent — but he did not sail the passage himself.

The earliest documented sighting is credited to the Spanish navigator Francisco de Hoces in 1526, more than fifty years earlier, which is why some Spanish-language sources call it the Mar de Hoces. The first confirmed transit was the 1616 voyage of Schouten and Le Maire, who rounded Cape Horn and named it.

The invisible border

Somewhere in the middle you cross the Antarctic Convergence, also called the Polar Front — the boundary where cold Antarctic surface water meets warmer subantarctic water and sinks beneath it. It is not marked, it moves, and it is unmistakable anyway: the air temperature drops, mist often forms on the sea surface, and the birds change.

It is a real biological border. The upwelling of nutrients along the convergence feeds phytoplankton, which feeds krill, which feeds everything else. Ecologists treat it as the northern edge of the Antarctic realm. You cross it in a few hours, usually asleep.

Tally’s list
  1. Meet an albatross. No agenda. Just introductions.
  2. Be on deck the moment the air changes and the far south begins.
  3. Ask a crew member which crossing this one is, and write their face down next to their answer.
  4. Do absolutely nothing for one entire hour, at sea, on purpose. (Hardest item on any list so far.)
  5. Add no items until land.

Item 5 failed. See items 6 through 9, added at sea.

The Relic

The difference between two words. Ask anyone who has been and they will tell you within a sentence whether they got the Lake or the Shake — a glassy two days with albatrosses hanging off the stern rail, or forty-eight hours of a ship rolling hard enough that the crew tapes down the crockery. It is the same crossing. Nobody who has done it forgets which one they got.

Tally, in the marginThe emptiest page in the diary and somehow the fullest — I have decided to be delighted by whichever crossing I get.

Getting there

Ushuaia, Argentina, is the departure point for the overwhelming majority of Antarctic voyages, reached by air from Buenos Aires. Ships leave through the Beagle Channel and are in open water within hours. The season runs November to March.

Fly-cruise options exist that skip the passage by flying from Punta Arenas to King George Island — faster, more expensive, and weather-dependent in its own way. Whether skipping it is a gain depends on your view of what you came for. Choose an IAATO-member operator: membership signals adherence to the visitor guidelines that keep Antarctic tourism tolerable.

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Common questions

What is the Drake Passage?

The Drake Passage is the body of water between Cape Horn at the southern tip of South America and the South Shetland Islands off Antarctica, roughly 800 kilometres wide and up to 4,500 metres deep. It is the shortest crossing between any continent and Antarctica and the main route for Antarctic expedition ships.

Why is the Drake Passage so rough?

Three factors combine. The Antarctic Circumpolar Current, the largest ocean current on Earth, squeezes through its narrowest gap here. There is no landmass at these latitudes to break the wind, so waves build with unlimited fetch. And the Atlantic, Pacific and Southern Oceans meet in the passage, with Pacific cyclones sweeping across it.

How long does it take to cross the Drake Passage?

Crossing the Drake Passage takes roughly 36 to 48 hours each way by expedition ship, with most voyages departing from Ushuaia, Argentina. IAATO reported around 105,000 Antarctic visitors in the 2022–23 season and about 125,000 in 2023–24, most of whom crossed the passage.

What is the Drake Lake and the Drake Shake?

The Drake Lake and the Drake Shake are the informal names for the passage's two moods. The Drake Lake is a calm, glassy crossing; the Drake Shake is the rough one, with heavy swell and a ship rolling hard. Which one a traveller gets depends on weather rather than season, and cannot be predicted far in advance.

What is the Antarctic Convergence?

The Antarctic Convergence, also called the Polar Front, is the boundary where cold Antarctic surface water meets warmer subantarctic water and sinks beneath it. Ships crossing the Drake Passage pass through it, marked by a sharp drop in air temperature and often sea mist. It is a genuine biological boundary and the ecological northern edge of the Antarctic realm.

Can you get to Antarctica without crossing the Drake Passage?

Yes. Fly-cruise itineraries fly travellers from Punta Arenas, Chile, to an airstrip on King George Island in the South Shetlands, where they board a ship, skipping the passage in one or both directions. These options cost more and remain dependent on flying weather.

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Notes on sources. This entry draws on Britannica's geographical description of the Drake Passage, published oceanographic accounts of the Antarctic Circumpolar Current and Antarctic Convergence, and expedition-operator material on crossing conditions and season. Figures for the current's flow rate vary between sources and measurement methods; the range given here spans the published figures rather than adopting one of them. Wave heights are drawn from operator and reference accounts rather than a single instrumented record. Written and fact-checked by SockMonkey. Last reviewed 24 August 2026.