- Where
- Melaky Region, western Madagascar
about 150 km north of Morondava - Coordinates
- 18.6667° S
44.7500° E - Protected
- Strict nature reserve (north)
national park (south, since 1997) - Area
- 723 km² park, 854 km² reserve
(Madagascar National Parks) - World Heritage
- Inscribed 1990
Andrefana Dry Forests since 2023 - Visits
- Guide obligatory
gateway village Bekopaka - Advisory
- Madagascar Level 2
The stone was grey and sharpened to points in every direction, as if a whole hillside had been put through a pencil sharpener and left that way. We went through it slowly, by cracks and ladders and a swaying bridge, and I held on with everything I had. Then something white sailed sideways between the spires and landed as lightly as a sock. After that I quite forgot my nerves.
The short answer
Tsingy de Bemaraha is a limestone plateau near the west coast of Madagascar, in the Melaky Region, protected in two parts. Madagascar National Parks records that in 1997 the southern part, 72,340 hectares, became Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park, to open it to ecotourism, while the northern part, 85,370 hectares, remains a strict nature reserve. UNESCO inscribed the reserve as a World Heritage Site in 1990; in 2023 the World Heritage Committee extended the listing to other dry-forest reserves and parks in western and southern Madagascar and renamed it the Andrefana Dry Forests. The national park centres on two formations, the Great Tsingy and the Little Tsingy, and is crossed by the Manambolo River. Its gateway is the village of Bekopaka; Wikipedia places the park about 150 km north of the coastal town of Morondava.
Why it's worth knowing
The tsingy are karst. Wikipedia, drawing on UNESCO, describes limestone uplands that groundwater has undercut and gouged with caverns and fissures, until vertical and horizontal erosion together have left “forests” of limestone needles. UNESCO’s description of the site dwells on the colour: the green of the forest against the metallic reflections of the grey karst “bristles”, an effect it calls unique in the world. The edges are sharp enough to cut through equipment and flesh, Wikipedia notes, which is what makes the ground so hard to cross, and why, in Neil Shea’s 2009 report for National Geographic, the word tsingy is translated as “where one cannot walk barefoot”.
The difficulty is also the protection. Shea described the park and reserve as an island within an island, a kind of biofortress made nearly impenetrable by the stone, and the formations themselves as rows of high-rise apartment buildings with a different set of species on each floor. Wikipedia makes the same point plainly: the summit, the slopes and the foot of a single needle are separate habitats, each with species clinging to it.
The field notes
Circuits, ladders and a guide
Madagascar’s national tourism office says a guide is obligatory for visiting the tsingy. Madagascar National Parks lists circuits of very different weights: Andadoany, an easy 2 km among labyrinths, about four hours; Ankeligoa, 6 km of average difficulty, about five hours; Andamozavaky, a difficult 4 km of about four hours; and Ranotsara, 17 km north of Bekopaka, a difficult 3 km of four to six hours. The harder circuits use fixed ladders, cables and suspended bridges to reach lookouts on the roof of the stone, and the park also offers caving and pirogue trips; the tourism office describes boats on rivers that run between steep gorges and the points of the tsingy.
The lemurs of the stone
UNESCO describes the site’s undisturbed forests, lakes and mangrove swamps as habitat for rare and endangered lemurs and birds, and calls the Bemaraha a centre of endemism. Among its lemurs is Von der Decken’s sifaka, a creamy-white lemur with a black face, which the IUCN lists as Critically Endangered; Wikipedia places most records of its range in western Madagascar north of the Manambolo River, the river that crosses the park.
A larger listing
When the World Heritage Committee extended the Bemaraha listing in 2023 (Decision 45 COM 8B.2), it became a serial property of dry forests across the west and south-west of Madagascar, among them the special reserves of Ankarana and Analamerana. UNESCO describes the whole as a centre of endemism for Madagascar’s dry tropical biomes, with almost a thousand endemic species and subspecies of plants, 156 endemic reptiles, 57 endemic mammals and 34 endemic amphibians.
A Von der Decken's sifaka in the Tsingy, September 2015.
Photograph: Heinonlein · CC BY-SA 4.0
A greater vasa parrot in Tsingy de Bemaraha, September 2015.
Photograph: Heinonlein · CC BY-SA 4.0
A serrated limestone blade in the Big Tsingy, January 2016.
Photograph: Rod Waddington · Big Tsingy, Madagascar (23822944469) · CC BY-SA 2.0
Pinnacles and forest under cloud at Tsingy de Bemaraha, November 2020.
Photograph: Cactus0625 · CC BY-SA 4.0 · cropped
- Choose the months without rain, and allow the road a whole spare day of its own. It keeps a timetable nobody has ever shown me.
- Wear stiff-soled shoes and a pair of gloves you are not fond of. The rock is sharper than it looks, and it looks very sharp.
- Tell your guide the truth about heights at the start, not halfway along a bridge, and leave the choice of circuit to them.
- I wrote “hold on” across the head of the list in large letters. Of all my items, that alone got finished in full, over and over, all day long.
- Stand quietly among the trees below the stone. Whoever lives up there may come down and look you over.
The Great Tsingy. A plateau of grey limestone worn by water into blades, needles and narrow canyons, with trees growing up out of the cracks between them, at the heart of the national park at Bemaraha. The edges are sharp enough to cut through equipment and skin, and the summit, the slopes and the foot of a single needle each hold their own living things.
Tally, in the marginA forest with no leaves at the top, only edges. It was nearly noon before I saw that everything living here goes up and down it without a scratch, which is more than could be said for me.
Getting there
How to get there. Fly to Morondava, on the west coast: Tsaradia lists flights from Antananarivo of about an hour and a quarter, two or three times a week. From Morondava the park is reached by road to the north, past the Avenue of the Baobabs and on by way of Belo-sur-Tsiribihina to Bekopaka, with river crossings on the way, as the national tourism office’s circuit descriptions show. Limited access is also possible from Antsalova, which Wikipedia says can be reached by plane from Antananarivo or Mahajanga. Fly rather than drive from Antananarivo: the overland route to Morondava uses the RN34 between Miandrivazo and Malaimbandy, which the U.S. State Department lists as a Level 3 area because of crime.
When to go. The national tourism office gives the dry months, mid-May to late November, as the time to visit. In the wet season the road is hard going: Madagascar National Parks advises that from mid-January to May the Morondava road is best travelled by motorbike from Belo-sur-Tsiribihina, in a group of at least three bikes.
What to arrange ahead. A guide, which is obligatory, and park entry from Madagascar National Parks; the tourism office has reported that tickets can be bought in Morondava the day before. A driver who knows the road and travels by day. Malaria prevention: the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention recommend it for all of Madagascar except Antananarivo.
Safety. The State Department has Madagascar at Level 2, exercise increased caution, because of crime, unrest and health. Its Level 3 areas include the RN34 between Miandrivazo and Malaimbandy, the Menabe Region south of Morondava, and the unnamed road from Tsiroanomandidy to Maintirano on the Melaky coast; the road north from Morondava to Bekopaka and the park are not named. It warns of violent crime after dark, in remote areas and on major roads in the south and west, and says medical care in rural areas is extremely limited, so that serious emergencies require evacuation: travel in daylight with a local driver, and carry insurance that covers evacuation.
Mark this place
Common questions
Where is Tsingy de Bemaraha?
Tsingy de Bemaraha is a limestone plateau in the Melaky Region of western Madagascar, about 150 km north of the coastal town of Morondava. Its southern part is Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park, created in 1997, and its northern part a strict nature reserve; the gateway village is Bekopaka, on the Manambolo River.
What does tsingy mean?
Tsingy is a Malagasy word for the sharp limestone karst of western Madagascar, translated in Neil Shea’s 2009 National Geographic report as “where one cannot walk barefoot”. At Tsingy de Bemaraha the limestone edges are sharp enough to cut equipment and skin.
How were the tsingy formed?
The tsingy of Bemaraha in Madagascar are karst: groundwater undercut the limestone uplands and gouged caverns and fissures into them, and vertical and horizontal erosion together left forests of limestone needles and blades, as UNESCO and Wikipedia describe the process.
Do you need a guide to visit Tsingy de Bemaraha?
Yes. Madagascar’s national tourism office says a guide is obligatory for visiting the tsingy of Bemaraha. Madagascar National Parks runs circuits from Bekopaka ranging from Andadoany, an easy 2 km walk of about four hours, to difficult circuits with fixed ladders, cables and suspended bridges.
How do you get to Tsingy de Bemaraha?
Fly from Antananarivo to Morondava on Madagascar’s west coast, then travel north by road through Belo-sur-Tsiribihina to Bekopaka, the gateway to Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park. The U.S. State Department lists the overland RN34 between Miandrivazo and Malaimbandy as a Level 3 area, which flying to Morondava avoids.
When is the best time to visit Tsingy de Bemaraha?
Madagascar’s national tourism office gives the dry months, mid-May to late November, as the time to visit the tsingy. Madagascar National Parks says that from mid-January to May the road from Morondava is best travelled by motorbike from Belo-sur-Tsiribihina, in a group of at least three bikes.
Is Tsingy de Bemaraha a World Heritage Site?
Yes. UNESCO inscribed the Tsingy de Bemaraha Strict Nature Reserve in Madagascar as a World Heritage Site in 1990. In 2023 the World Heritage Committee extended the listing to other dry-forest reserves and parks in western and southern Madagascar and renamed it the Andrefana Dry Forests.
Is Madagascar safe to visit?
The U.S. State Department has Madagascar at Level 2, exercise increased caution (advisory dated 4 December 2025), because of crime, unrest and health. Its Level 3 areas include the RN34 between Miandrivazo and Malaimbandy and the Menabe Region south of Morondava; the road north from Morondava to Tsingy de Bemaraha is not named.