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Field Guide · Entry № 176

Tsingy de Bemaraha

The Bemaraha plateau looks like a forest with no leaves: grey limestone worn by water into blades, needles and narrow canyons, with green trees growing up out of the cracks. The Malagasy word for this kind of ground, tsingy, is translated as “where one cannot walk barefoot”. Crossing it at all takes a guide, ladders and a good deal of care. The reward is a labyrinth that UNESCO describes as unique in the world, with rare lemurs living in the forests of its canyons.

A dense field of grey limestone blades stretching to the horizon with green trees breaking through

Photograph: Rod Waddington · Big Tsingy, Madagascar (24082669822) · CC BY-SA 2.0 · cropped

Where
Melaky Region, western Madagascar
about 150 km north of Morondava
Coordinates
18.6667° S
44.7500° E
Protected
Strict nature reserve (north)
national park (south, since 1997)
Area
723 km² park, 854 km² reserve
(Madagascar National Parks)
World Heritage
Inscribed 1990
Andrefana Dry Forests since 2023
Visits
Guide obligatory
gateway village Bekopaka
Advisory
Madagascar Level 2
From Tally’s diary

The stone was grey and sharpened to points in every direction, as if a whole hillside had been put through a pencil sharpener and left that way. We went through it slowly, by cracks and ladders and a swaying bridge, and I held on with everything I had. Then something white sailed sideways between the spires and landed as lightly as a sock. After that I quite forgot my nerves.

The short answer

Tsingy de Bemaraha is a limestone plateau near the west coast of Madagascar, in the Melaky Region, protected in two parts. Madagascar National Parks records that in 1997 the southern part, 72,340 hectares, became Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park, to open it to ecotourism, while the northern part, 85,370 hectares, remains a strict nature reserve. UNESCO inscribed the reserve as a World Heritage Site in 1990; in 2023 the World Heritage Committee extended the listing to other dry-forest reserves and parks in western and southern Madagascar and renamed it the Andrefana Dry Forests. The national park centres on two formations, the Great Tsingy and the Little Tsingy, and is crossed by the Manambolo River. Its gateway is the village of Bekopaka; Wikipedia places the park about 150 km north of the coastal town of Morondava.

Why it's worth knowing

The tsingy are karst. Wikipedia, drawing on UNESCO, describes limestone uplands that groundwater has undercut and gouged with caverns and fissures, until vertical and horizontal erosion together have left “forests” of limestone needles. UNESCO’s description of the site dwells on the colour: the green of the forest against the metallic reflections of the grey karst “bristles”, an effect it calls unique in the world. The edges are sharp enough to cut through equipment and flesh, Wikipedia notes, which is what makes the ground so hard to cross, and why, in Neil Shea’s 2009 report for National Geographic, the word tsingy is translated as “where one cannot walk barefoot”.

The difficulty is also the protection. Shea described the park and reserve as an island within an island, a kind of biofortress made nearly impenetrable by the stone, and the formations themselves as rows of high-rise apartment buildings with a different set of species on each floor. Wikipedia makes the same point plainly: the summit, the slopes and the foot of a single needle are separate habitats, each with species clinging to it.

The field notes

Circuits, ladders and a guide

Madagascar’s national tourism office says a guide is obligatory for visiting the tsingy. Madagascar National Parks lists circuits of very different weights: Andadoany, an easy 2 km among labyrinths, about four hours; Ankeligoa, 6 km of average difficulty, about five hours; Andamozavaky, a difficult 4 km of about four hours; and Ranotsara, 17 km north of Bekopaka, a difficult 3 km of four to six hours. The harder circuits use fixed ladders, cables and suspended bridges to reach lookouts on the roof of the stone, and the park also offers caving and pirogue trips; the tourism office describes boats on rivers that run between steep gorges and the points of the tsingy.

The lemurs of the stone

UNESCO describes the site’s undisturbed forests, lakes and mangrove swamps as habitat for rare and endangered lemurs and birds, and calls the Bemaraha a centre of endemism. Among its lemurs is Von der Decken’s sifaka, a creamy-white lemur with a black face, which the IUCN lists as Critically Endangered; Wikipedia places most records of its range in western Madagascar north of the Manambolo River, the river that crosses the park.

A larger listing

When the World Heritage Committee extended the Bemaraha listing in 2023 (Decision 45 COM 8B.2), it became a serial property of dry forests across the west and south-west of Madagascar, among them the special reserves of Ankarana and Analamerana. UNESCO describes the whole as a centre of endemism for Madagascar’s dry tropical biomes, with almost a thousand endemic species and subspecies of plants, 156 endemic reptiles, 57 endemic mammals and 34 endemic amphibians.

Tally’s list
  1. Choose the months without rain, and allow the road a whole spare day of its own. It keeps a timetable nobody has ever shown me.
  2. Wear stiff-soled shoes and a pair of gloves you are not fond of. The rock is sharper than it looks, and it looks very sharp.
  3. Tell your guide the truth about heights at the start, not halfway along a bridge, and leave the choice of circuit to them.
  4. I wrote “hold on” across the head of the list in large letters. Of all my items, that alone got finished in full, over and over, all day long.
  5. Stand quietly among the trees below the stone. Whoever lives up there may come down and look you over.
The Relic

The Great Tsingy. A plateau of grey limestone worn by water into blades, needles and narrow canyons, with trees growing up out of the cracks between them, at the heart of the national park at Bemaraha. The edges are sharp enough to cut through equipment and skin, and the summit, the slopes and the foot of a single needle each hold their own living things.

Tally, in the marginA forest with no leaves at the top, only edges. It was nearly noon before I saw that everything living here goes up and down it without a scratch, which is more than could be said for me.

Getting there

How to get there. Fly to Morondava, on the west coast: Tsaradia lists flights from Antananarivo of about an hour and a quarter, two or three times a week. From Morondava the park is reached by road to the north, past the Avenue of the Baobabs and on by way of Belo-sur-Tsiribihina to Bekopaka, with river crossings on the way, as the national tourism office’s circuit descriptions show. Limited access is also possible from Antsalova, which Wikipedia says can be reached by plane from Antananarivo or Mahajanga. Fly rather than drive from Antananarivo: the overland route to Morondava uses the RN34 between Miandrivazo and Malaimbandy, which the U.S. State Department lists as a Level 3 area because of crime.

When to go. The national tourism office gives the dry months, mid-May to late November, as the time to visit. In the wet season the road is hard going: Madagascar National Parks advises that from mid-January to May the Morondava road is best travelled by motorbike from Belo-sur-Tsiribihina, in a group of at least three bikes.

What to arrange ahead. A guide, which is obligatory, and park entry from Madagascar National Parks; the tourism office has reported that tickets can be bought in Morondava the day before. A driver who knows the road and travels by day. Malaria prevention: the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention recommend it for all of Madagascar except Antananarivo.

Safety. The State Department has Madagascar at Level 2, exercise increased caution, because of crime, unrest and health. Its Level 3 areas include the RN34 between Miandrivazo and Malaimbandy, the Menabe Region south of Morondava, and the unnamed road from Tsiroanomandidy to Maintirano on the Melaky coast; the road north from Morondava to Bekopaka and the park are not named. It warns of violent crime after dark, in remote areas and on major roads in the south and west, and says medical care in rural areas is extremely limited, so that serious emergencies require evacuation: travel in daylight with a local driver, and carry insurance that covers evacuation.

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Common questions

Where is Tsingy de Bemaraha?

Tsingy de Bemaraha is a limestone plateau in the Melaky Region of western Madagascar, about 150 km north of the coastal town of Morondava. Its southern part is Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park, created in 1997, and its northern part a strict nature reserve; the gateway village is Bekopaka, on the Manambolo River.

What does tsingy mean?

Tsingy is a Malagasy word for the sharp limestone karst of western Madagascar, translated in Neil Shea’s 2009 National Geographic report as “where one cannot walk barefoot”. At Tsingy de Bemaraha the limestone edges are sharp enough to cut equipment and skin.

How were the tsingy formed?

The tsingy of Bemaraha in Madagascar are karst: groundwater undercut the limestone uplands and gouged caverns and fissures into them, and vertical and horizontal erosion together left forests of limestone needles and blades, as UNESCO and Wikipedia describe the process.

Do you need a guide to visit Tsingy de Bemaraha?

Yes. Madagascar’s national tourism office says a guide is obligatory for visiting the tsingy of Bemaraha. Madagascar National Parks runs circuits from Bekopaka ranging from Andadoany, an easy 2 km walk of about four hours, to difficult circuits with fixed ladders, cables and suspended bridges.

How do you get to Tsingy de Bemaraha?

Fly from Antananarivo to Morondava on Madagascar’s west coast, then travel north by road through Belo-sur-Tsiribihina to Bekopaka, the gateway to Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park. The U.S. State Department lists the overland RN34 between Miandrivazo and Malaimbandy as a Level 3 area, which flying to Morondava avoids.

When is the best time to visit Tsingy de Bemaraha?

Madagascar’s national tourism office gives the dry months, mid-May to late November, as the time to visit the tsingy. Madagascar National Parks says that from mid-January to May the road from Morondava is best travelled by motorbike from Belo-sur-Tsiribihina, in a group of at least three bikes.

Is Tsingy de Bemaraha a World Heritage Site?

Yes. UNESCO inscribed the Tsingy de Bemaraha Strict Nature Reserve in Madagascar as a World Heritage Site in 1990. In 2023 the World Heritage Committee extended the listing to other dry-forest reserves and parks in western and southern Madagascar and renamed it the Andrefana Dry Forests.

Is Madagascar safe to visit?

The U.S. State Department has Madagascar at Level 2, exercise increased caution (advisory dated 4 December 2025), because of crime, unrest and health. Its Level 3 areas include the RN34 between Miandrivazo and Malaimbandy and the Menabe Region south of Morondava; the road north from Morondava to Tsingy de Bemaraha is not named.

Notes on sources. This entry draws on Madagascar National Parks (parcs-madagascar.com), as indexed, for the division of the protected area in 1997 into a national park of 72,340 ha in the south, to promote ecotourism, and a strict nature reserve of 85,370 ha in the north; the circuits Andadoany, Ankeligoa, Andamozavaky and Ranotsara, with their lengths, times and grades; the ladders, cables and suspended bridges of the harder circuits and the caving; and the advice to travel the Morondava road by motorbike from Belo-sur-Tsiribihina between mid-January and May. It draws on UNESCO’s World Heritage listing (whc.unesco.org, No. 494), as indexed, for the forest of limestone needles, the undisturbed forests, lakes and mangrove swamps as habitat for rare and endangered lemurs and birds, the centre of endemism, the forest green on the metallic grey of the karst “bristles” and the description of the site as unique in the world, the inscription in 1990, and the extension and renaming as the Andrefana Dry Forests in 2023 (Decision 45 COM 8B.2) with its counts of endemic plants, reptiles, mammals and amphibians. Madagascar’s national tourism office (madagascar-tourisme.com), as indexed, supplied the obligatory guide, the boat trips between the gorges, the dry months of mid-May to late November, the circuit descriptions that include river crossings, and the report that park tickets can be bought in Morondava the day before. Tsaradia’s own pages, as indexed, supplied the Antananarivo–Morondava flights of about 1 h 15 min, two or three a week (its French and English pages differ by one). Neil Shea’s report “Living on a Razor’s Edge” (National Geographic, November 2009), as indexed, supplied the translation “where one cannot walk barefoot”, the island within an island and the biofortress, and the comparison with rows of high-rise apartment buildings. Wikipedia’s articles on Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park, the Tsingy de Bemaraha Strict Nature Reserve and Von der Decken’s sifaka, and the references they cite, supplied the coordinates, the Great and Little Tsingy, the Manambolo River crossing the park, the undercutting of the karst by groundwater and the vertical and horizontal erosion, the edges that cut equipment and flesh, the separate habitats of summit, slope and base, the distance of 150 km from Morondava, the flights to Antsalova, and the sifaka’s colouring, IUCN status and range north of the Manambolo. The route past the Avenue of the Baobabs follows that entry. The CDC recommends malaria prevention for all of Madagascar except Antananarivo. Travel advisory: the United States has Madagascar at Level 2, exercise increased caution (4 December 2025), with Level 3 areas including the RN34 between Miandrivazo and Malaimbandy, the Menabe Region south of Morondava and the unnamed road from Tsiroanomandidy to Maintirano; the road north from Morondava to Bekopaka and the park are not named. Whether the Tsiroanomandidy–Maintirano road passes near the northern, strict-reserve end of the plateau could not be confirmed; visitors do not use it. Checked 3 October 2026 against the State Department’s advisory feed. Written and fact-checked by SockMonkey. Last reviewed 4 October 2026.